A Change of Guard

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Thursday 14 May 2009

Rediscovering South-east Asia: Cambodia

Thu, May 14, 2009
The Straits Times




Read also:
- Rediscovering South-east Asia: Vietnam
- Rediscovering South-east Asia: Laos
- Next-door beauties

[top photo: Rapids form in rivers that run down from the Cardamom Mountains in Koh Kong, Cambodia.]

By Cheryl Tan

WATER WORLD WONDERS


Koh Kong, Cambodia

In Cambodia, the majestic Angkor Wat gets the lion's share of attention from tourists, so much so that the country's beautiful rainforests remain largely unexplored.

The coastal province of Koh Kong, along the south-west border of Cambodia and Thailand, is home to the Cardamom Mountains.

Says Ms Janet Newman, who owns the eco-themed Rainbow Lodge in Koh Kong province: "It is the perfect place for jungle trekking and overnight camping."

The 41-year-old Briton set up her lodge last year after falling in love with the area. The lodge has seven bungalows with balconies overlooking the Kep River.

There is more nature to enjoy when you take a speedboat from Krong Koh Kong town to visit the Koh Por waterfall and Tatai river and waterfall.

The Peam Krasaop Wildlife Sanctuary comprises 260 sq km of mangroves, which is more than one-third the size of Singapore. Here you will find a 1km-long mangrove walk with a 15m-high observation tower where you can catch lovely panoramic views.

Also, do not miss the dolphin tours to catch a glimpse of these endangered Irrawaddy marine mammals, which are known to swim near the coast. As a bonus, watch fireflies twinkle after sunset.

Getting there
Take a two-hour SilkAir flight from Singapore to Phnom Penh ($450), followed by a 51/2-hour drive by car or minivan to Koh Kong (US$12 or S$17.50).

Where to stay
The Rainbow Lodge (from US$50) which offers bungalows with fans, mosquito nets and en suite bathrooms with shower and flushing toilet.

Oasis Bungalow Resort (from US$20) has panoramic views of the surrounding coconut plantations and Cardamom mountain range. Bungalows are fitted with a basic double bed, shower and flushing toilet.

Cost: About $554 per person

RIDE ON BAMBOO

Battambang, Cambodia

This quaint riverside city, known for its French colonial architecture and friendly people, is fast becoming the next tourist hot spot. For a ride to remember, take the bamboo train, an open-air transport made of bamboo planks and fitted with a simple motor.

A Vietnamese farmer at work along the Mekong Delta.


The make-shift bamboo train rail transporting firewood in Cambodia.

Called a norry, the bamboo train runs on actual train tracks and is the most popular and convenient mode of transport in the region.

There is one drawback to riding on the norry: You have to be ready to hop off quickly when you hear a train approaching from the opposite direction - on the same track.

Similar to the Angkor Wat in Siem Reap but far less popular is the Prasat Banan temple, which has five towers.

Its hillside location makes it a great place to take in the bucolic splendour of the surrounding countryside.

Local guide and taxi driver Suong Sambath, 39, says: "There are not many tourists here, so it is great for those who want to get away from the capital."

He also suggests a visit to Phnom Sampheu hill as it gives travellers a quick history lesson on the Khmer Rouge atrocities.

If gruesome history is not your thing, maybe gastronomy will suit you better. Sign up for Khmer cooking classes at the Ch'neainh Ch'neainh cooking school (US$10 or S$14.50 per person), which includes a trip to the local market to buy your own ingredients.

Of course, you will need to know what authentic Khmer food tastes like. Do your research at local restaurants, whose menus start from US$4 for a plate of fried rice or noodles.

Getting there
Take a two-hour SilkAir flight from Singapore to Phnom Penh ($450), followed by a five-hour bus trip to Battambang (US$4).

Where to stay
Golden Palace Hotel Palace in Battambang (from US$28.50) is a city budget hotel that offers simple but comfortable facilities. Le Relais De Chhlong Hotel on Mekong Chhlong is slightly upmarket, with rooms from US$74.10. It has air- conditioned rooms and satellite television.

Cost: About $579 per person


This article was first published in The Straits Times.

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